🚧 This site is under construction. You're welcome to look around, the full storefront goes live August 10, 2026.
Founding early access is open, reserve your place
Garage, Galley & Hangar
Free pre-purchase checklist

10 things to check before you buy a used Hunter 34

The 1983 to 1987 Hunter 34 is a lot of boat for the money, but it is now a forty-year-old production cruiser with a handful of very specific weak points, several of them hidden. Use this list to decide whether a given boat is worth paying a surveyor to inspect.

01

Inspect the chainplate anchors and tie rods Safety

Hunter buried a mild-steel angle-iron anchor in the hull with a stainless tie rod threaded into it, and water down the rod rusts that steel from the inside until the welded nut pulls through and drops the mast, so borescope the rod aperture or cut a 4-inch inspection port aft of each anchor.

02

Straightedge the deck-stepped mast beam and compression post Safety

Water from the mast-base wiring chase rots or crushes the wood in the overhead beam the post bears on, so lay a straightedge along the underside of the beam and look for any dimple, plus spider cracks radiating from the deck mast step.

03

Moisture-meter the plywood side-deck core

The side decks are plywood-cored and the chainplate, stanchion, hatch, and portlight penetrations all leak into that core if not rebedded, so percussion-sound and meter around every fitting and walk the decks heel-to-toe feeling for give.

04

Check the cast-iron keel for a smile and expose the five keel bolts

The iron keel shipped without adequate rust protection and opens a keel-to-hull seam (the smile) that drives salt water into the joint, so sight the joint hauled and inspect the five studs and backing plates in the bilge, worst at the forward pair under the shower pan.

05

Price the B&R standing rigging as expired and inspect the headstay hardest Safety

On a forty-year-old boat assume the original wire is well past life, and because this B&R rig has no forward lower shrouds or inner forestay the headstay is the one non-redundant stay, so a furler failure can take the whole rig down.

06

Determine original versus upgraded rudder and check for bearing play Safety

The early rudders were too small and too weak and cracked, so confirm whether the boat has the original or the 1984-and-later high-performance blade, then shake the blade athwartships for play in the worn plastic lower bearing and sound it for water.

07

Inspect the fuel tank base, especially on aluminum tanks Safety

Early boats got aluminum tanks that corrode and weep diesel from the bottom where you cannot see, and the tank cannot come out through the lazarette (you must open the aft-cabin bulkhead), so factor that access labor into any replacement.

08

Confirm the engine is fresh-water cooled, not raw-water cooled Safety

For salt-water use a raw-water-cooled Yanmar 3GMF is a corrosion liability, so verify heat-exchanger cooling and check the mixing elbow, raw-water pump, and stern gland on the sea trial.

09

Flashlight the hull-deck joint and check for liner-trapped water

Factory quality was uneven (one owner found hull-deck bolts never torqued) and the molded liner can trap stuffing-box or deck leaks between liner and hull so they never reach the bilge, meaning a dry bilge is not proof of a dry boat.

10

Sight every port, hatch, and molded deck cover

Practical Sailor flagged leaking ports and hatches plus molded locker lids and anchor-well covers that are too light and tend to crack, and every weeping port is another feeder into the side-deck core below it.

Take it with you

This is the short list. The book is the long one.

The full Hunter 34 volume walks every point in depth, with the fix costs, the service data, and the parts sources. Leave your email for the printable checklist and word the moment the doors open.

See the full volume →