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Garage, Galley & Hangar
Free pre-purchase checklist

10 things to check before you buy a used Tartan 30

The Tartan 30 is an honest boat to survey: Sparkman & Stephens drew an overbuilt hull with few bad habits, and its short problem list clusters around one theme, water getting into places it should not. Read the safety-flagged items twice, because on this boat condition dwarfs the deceptively cheap purchase price.

01

Confirm it is a genuine fin-keel Tartan 30, not a 27, 34C, 37, or 40

The Tartan 30 was only ever a fixed fin keel with no centerboard, so check the badge and HIN: if it turns out to be one of the centerboard S&S Tartans, the survey is a materially different and more expensive job.

02

Pull the chainplate covers and treat the bulkhead as guilty until proven dry Safety

Chainplates are prone to leaks, the aft one bolts through a plywood bulkhead that the water soaks and rots, and owners have had to replace an entire side bulkhead, so inspect the metal at the deck exit and clevis holes and probe the bulkhead top corners.

03

Inspect the keel bolts, floor timbers, and the keel-to-stub smile Safety

Groundings and poor jackstand storage loosen the floor timbers and one-inch stainless keel bolts, so sight the joint for a widening smile and check the bilge for rust-streaked nuts, cracked tabbing, and soft or crushed floors.

04

Trace water leaking down the keel-stepped mast into the bilge Safety

Rain runs down inside the mast and out at the partners, and in documented Tartan 30 cases this chronic leakage has severely rusted the keel bolts, so check for a drain bung and boot and moisture-meter the partners as a core-wetting hot spot.

05

Check the skeg rudder for stock corrosion and a swiveling bearing tube Safety

Water inside the foam-filled blade rusts the internal metal bands and lets the stock develop play, and the original resin sleeve bearing can fuse to the post and swivel, opening a below-waterline leak where the tube is no longer glassed to the hull.

06

Tap and moisture-meter the plywood-cored deck

Once the plywood core soaks water at a leaking fitting it delaminates the outer skin, so concentrate on the chainplates, stanchions, cleats, mast partners, and companionway, though wetting usually stays local and repairable if caught early.

07

Assess the Atomic 4 gasoline installation and confirm insurability Safety

The gasoline vapor risk drives everything (sniff the bilge, verify the blower, flame arrestor, ignition protection, and anti-siphon loop), and several major insurers now refuse or restrict gas-powered sailboats, so a boat you cannot insure is one you cannot keep.

08

Measure the low companionway sill against a flooded cockpit Safety

Reviewers flag the original sill as too low to keep a swamped cockpit from emptying below, and with a large 7 ft 4 in cockpit a boarding sea has an easy path into the cabin, so factor a raised sill or bridgedeck for any offshore use.

09

Assume undocumented standing rigging is at end of life Safety

On an unrestored 45-to-55-year-old boat the 1x19 wire and swage terminals are likely original, and wire fatigue and swage crevice corrosion are not reliably visible, so budget a re-rig absent a dated invoice.

10

Inspect the steel fuel tank and aluminum water tank

The original steel fuel tank rusts (a reliability and safety problem) and a roughly 30-year-plus aluminum water tank pits from the inside at the welds and under the straps, so inspect both and sample the water.

Take it with you

This is the short list. The book is the long one.

The full Tartan 30 volume walks every point in depth, with the fix costs, the service data, and the parts sources. Leave your email for the printable checklist and word the moment the doors open.

See the full volume →